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Whatever the weather or the time of year, the visitor to any of northern Norway's three counties − Finnmark, Troms and Nordland − cannot escape a sense of the extraordinary.

In the round-the-clock daylight of high summer, people simply forget to go to bed; in the star-spangled winter darkness, the pale light of dawn shades imperceptibly into dusk, and the aurora borealis sends cascades of flame across the heavens for up to 20 hours at a time.

The landscape of the northern Norwegian mainland is as diverse as it is vast. The coast of Finnmark is stark, with mountain plateaux tipping down towards the sea; but there are also forested valleys, lush river banks and small but thriving farms. The coastlines of Troms and Nordland are livelier and more heavily vegetated, but the mountains seem less approachable. From the Arctic Circle to east Finnmark, enormous numbers of birds of all species colonize the cliff faces and mountain slopes.

No doubt about it: northern Norway is the true Arctic, the land of the midnight sun and the northern lights.

Natural wizardry
Offshore, the island archipelagos of Lofoten and Vesterålen offer some of the most breath-taking scenery in the country. Here the towering, pointed mountain peaks rise majestically from the sea to a height of almost 1000 metres; the mountains are separated by swathes of emerald green and the shorelines are fringed with white sandy beaches. The magical land- and seascapes often resemble a film set, the product of some obscure technological wizardry.

Finnmark was the site of one of the oldest settlements in Norway, the Komsa culture, which is thought to date back to 8000 BC; today the province is the home of the Sami, or native Laplanders − some of whose settlements, however, extend further south into Mid-Norway. At Sápmi, Finnmark's largest Sami theme park, visitors can explore authentic Sami buildings and experience a multimedia presentation of Sami culture, history and landscape. Few children can resist a few minutes in a reindeer enclosure, or a lesson in using a lasso.

North Cape, mainland Europe's most northerly point, is a major tourist destination, attracting thousands every year. Local fishing stations make a point of welcoming foreign visitors, who are offered an unusual insight into a unique way of life.

The great outdoors
The region as a whole proffers any number of exciting challenges to lovers of the great outdoors: summer or winter, land or sea, from ocean or inland fishing to whale safaris and scuba diving. Mountain climbing is popular; but there are also plenty of hiking opportunities in more gentle terrain. Accommodation ranges from first-class hotels to youth hostels. Many prefer the unique experience of staying in a fisherman's cabin, or rorbu, with a rowboat moored right outside the door.

The Coastal Express (Hurtigruten) offers a sea voyage considered by many travel writers to be the world's most beautiful. You can cruise the entire coast in comfort from Bergen to Kirkenes; the truly adventurous can extend their journey, by air or sea, to take in Svalbard (also known as Spitsbergen), only 800 miles (1300 km) from the North Pole.

Fishing and farming, the region's principle industries, have shaped the Northerners' personality and lifestyle. They are typically open, direct and hospitable with a lusty sense of humour. Generations of struggle against the elements has made them resolute and perhaps a little reckless.

These qualities will serve them well as the Norwegian government implements its "High North policy", which aims to promote "sustainable growth and development in the northern regions.... so that the inhabitants in the north can develop vital local communities".
 
This involves an emphasis on regional and international cooperation and the development of natural resources, including offshore oil and gas. It is likely to trigger some positive demographic and economic changes in the North, not least in the cities and towns, many of which bear the mark of hasty post-war reconstruction − although Tromsø, the region's capital, has retained much of its charm.

• Finnmark
• Troms
• Nordland

Far to the north and furthest to the east in Norway, where the sky meets the sea, the road follows the coast towards the ice cold Barents Sea. The road along the Varanger peninsula begins among the sheltered birch forests and bogs of Varangerbotn and ends in a lunar landscape of jagged cliffs at the world’s end.

In the Arctic there is no space between the sea and the mountains. During the short summer Siberian heat can suddenly replace freezing sea fog and the days never end. Raging storms ravage the winter nights. Fishing, migrations and trade have made Varanger an Arctic melting pot of peoples and cultures. The proximity to Russia with the Pomor trade, Finnish immigration and Sami traditions are evident in contrasting expressions and an exciting cultural history.

In the 17th century, witches were being brought to trial all over Europe and Vardø was the part of Norway where most condemned witches were burned. A memorial will be built here by 2010 in which Louise Bourgeois’ art and Peter Zumthor’s architecture will convey the history of the 91 victims and their gruesome death.

The road along the outer coast of the island winds up and downhill through striking scenery and between fingers of mountain that reach out into the mighty Norwegian Sea.

The rich fishing in the sea provides the basis for existence. In the fjords there are characteristic examples of coastal culture with strong vitality. Small, dispersed fishing hamlets and villages claw onto thin strips of land between the mountains and the sea.

Here you will find the beautiful Husøya with a population of less than 250 and a five minute walk to anywhere.

Senja is hospitable all year round, in summer with its constant light, but also in winter with its short days and changeable weather. Just like the weather and the sea, the nature on the island is an exciting encounter. Senja and Andøya offer a more coastal alternative to the E6 and Hurtigruten. You can reach the island from the E6 via Finnsnes or by ferry from the north and south.

The road follows the seaward side of the island, beside the open sea and long, white beaches. The people here have been characterised by the rough Norwegian Sea. The fishing hamlets of Bleik and Nordmela reflect the interplay between people and the harshness of nature over the course of millennia. On Andøya there are traces of stone age human settlement.

Also on Andøya are some of Norway´s biggest marshes, where peat is cut. The island is also known for its cloudberries. From the flat expanse of bog and marshland, steep cliffs rise up more than 700 metres above the sea. In summer, the island is turned golden by the midnight sun.

Together with Senja, Andøya offers a more coastal alternative to the E6 and Hurtigruten. The island`s undisturbed location beside the open sea and the presence of the Gulf Stream make it possible to see both whales and seals. The bird rocks on Bleiksøya, where sea eagles circle above the puffins, and sea fishing trips offer other possibilities.

The road follows the Lofoten archipelago out into the Norwegian Sea, in a magnificent contrast of craggy peaks, white beaches and emerald green sea to Å at the end of the road. The tidal currents between the islands and the sea around them were the origins of Lofoten’s important fishery and its rich cultural traditions.

Along the inshore side of Lofoten are fishing hamlets with their characteristic rorbu cabins. Henningsvær and Nusfjord can be reached via some amazing side roads from the tourist route. These side roads to the seaward and northern side of the archipelago provide access to Eggum and other idyllic spots, bathed in the golden light of the midnight sun.

Every year the wonders of nature and the living coastal culture attract thousands of visitors, filling the brief weeks of summer in the rorbus, art galleries and seafood restaurants with life and sound. There are many opportunities for activities at sea and in the mountains, but Lofoten is also a place of peace and quiet. Winter is the time of the Lofoten fishery, for the skrei - the winter cod - that still means so much for settlement in Lofoten.

Getting around Lofoten by car or cycle is easy. From Bodø and Moskenes there are boats out to the island communities of Værøy and Røst, the last settlements before the open sea. The bird rocks south of Røst are the nesting site for millions of seabirds. Whales, seals and killer whales are also to be seen in the area and organised boat trips give you the chance to experience the bird cliffs and sea animals at close range.

Helgelandskysten Nord Tourist Route winds along coast and sea, mountain and glacier and crosses the Arctic Circle towards the midnight sun of summer and the-round-the clock darkness of winter. This route provides an alternative to the E6 to the west of the Svartisen glacier, with a magnificent view of ocean and islands.

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Helgeland’s nature is rich and fertile. This north country coast is also home to many sagas and myths. The sea lanes along this coast were once the country’s main thoroughfare for north-south travel. People have lived here since the stone age, making a living from fishing and small farms.

The Svartisen glacier is easily seen from the road, a 350 square kilometre demonstration of frozen power. An arm of the glacier, Engabre, reaches down from 1,200 metres almost to the fjord itself.

Beyond the tourist route, more than 14,000 islands stretch out into the ocean, offering a wealth of activity and experience. There are car ferries and express boats to many of the largest islands.

Salstraumen, just north of the tourist route, is one of the world’s most powerful tidal currents and, together with three other tidal currents in the area, presents an eldorado for anglers.

The Southern Helgeland coast is a journey through a lush nature, with the ocean, sheltered bays and beaches on the seaward side of the road and mountains and peaks on the other. This coast is rich in tradition, legends and stories.

The Vega Islands are on Unesco’s World Heritage List. Over the last 1,500 years, generations of fishermen and farmers have sustained a living in this weatherbitten area with the eider duck as a vital source of livelihood.

The Seven Sisters north of Alstahaug and Torghatten south of Brønnøysund are well known natural attractions along this stretch of road. The Sisters are a range of seven mountains, all more than 1,000 metres above sea level. The 160 metre long hole through Torghatten mountain was created by the ice age. The path through the cave and up to the view out towards islands and sea is a rewarding walk.

The islands and skerries of the Helgeland coast have been made accessible to travellers by ferries and express boats. This stretch of coast is known as the thousand island realm and there are perhaps as many opportunities for activities and experiences there.